Stephen Rwangyezi stands at the centre of the amphitheatre, a drum tucked beneath his arm, eyes glinting in the golden dusk. Around him, the Ndere Troupe waits- young dancers in bright gomesis, beads ...

The Ndere Troupe is called Africa’s Dancing Encyclopedia. (A U.S. troupe would do some Cotton-eyed Joe-polka-salsa-zydeco-hip-hop numbers that MC Hammer couldn’t touch. And we sure as hell won’t.) ...